Rainy Day Ruminations
This morning I woke up to a chilly, grey Rome. I'd be lying if I said it didn't dampen my spirits a bit, as this was to be my first full day to explore the city since arrival. No school, no plans, just me and a map. Sometimes the days you don't plan, however, end up being the best.
I'm embarassed to say that prior to my arrival I didn't so much as crack open a guidebook. I figured there'd be plenty of time to do that once I arrived. And so, this morning when I woke up, I decided that today was 'plenty of time.' I read up on the Castel Sant'Angelo - originally built as emperor Hadrian's tomb, then a fort, then a safehaven for a frightened and corrupt Borgia Pope (who decorated papal apartments in the utmost luxury). I hoped that since it was raining out there would be few tourists, and since it was across the Tiber I would walk through Trastevere a bit.
Crossing the river I strode up and away from the lungotevere - the main street that runs along the water. Trastevere has far less traffic (there are actually some serious driving restrictions) and the meandering cobblestone side streets had far more to offer than the main drag. I made a left here, and a right there, holding onto railings when going up or down hill. I had to watch each step carefully when climbing down the worn stairs, which would have been tricky enough in dry weather but were downright catastrophic in the rain and covered in wet leaves. But with great risk comes great reward, and after a curvy uphill battle I found myself at a piazza overlooking all of Rome below. There was a beautiful church with a large fountain out front and marble colunms. I couldn't find the name of it anywhere other than on the facade, but since my Latin isn't what it once was (or ever was, to be honest), I have no idea what it's called. All I know is that it's one of those places that literally takes your breath away. Something I've noticed: despite their size and grandeur, the exterior of these churches, even when perched in or lilterally built on a hillside, are supsrisingly un-ostentatious. Perhaps the use of marble and stone, and incorporating fountains, make them blend in better with their organic surroundings. Inside, though, is usually a completely different story.
After all of the up I found my way down, through Gianicolo. Think Central Park meets mediteranneo, speckled with ancient Roman ruins. It's a beautiful green park, with views of the city from its highest points and views of the Aurelian city walls at its lowest. When I finally made my way casually down, I managed to get to my original destination - the Castel. Like they say, all roads lead to Rome. It's amazing how simple strolling will lead one anywhere they meant to go. By the time I arrived, of course, it was early afternoon and everyone and their poorly-dressed, personal-space-ignoring mother was there, too.
So I turned around and walked on towards my side of the river. I stopped in a bar for a caffe, bought the Herald Tribune, and decided that the old adage that life is about the journey, not the destination, is so very, very true.
Unlike last night, whence I spent the evening drinking wine and watching Veronica Mars on DVD (a new personal favorite - I highly recommend), tonight I have dinner plans at 8.30 with a bunch of Italians. Well, one of whom is quasi-American. I'm really nervous - is that weird? It's sort of like a first date, but with a group of people who don't even speak my language. I'm sure it's nothing a little campari and soda won't ease, but unnerving none the less. Man, you really have to put yourself out there if you want to create a life for yourself. Nobody said it would be easy.
I'm embarassed to say that prior to my arrival I didn't so much as crack open a guidebook. I figured there'd be plenty of time to do that once I arrived. And so, this morning when I woke up, I decided that today was 'plenty of time.' I read up on the Castel Sant'Angelo - originally built as emperor Hadrian's tomb, then a fort, then a safehaven for a frightened and corrupt Borgia Pope (who decorated papal apartments in the utmost luxury). I hoped that since it was raining out there would be few tourists, and since it was across the Tiber I would walk through Trastevere a bit.
Crossing the river I strode up and away from the lungotevere - the main street that runs along the water. Trastevere has far less traffic (there are actually some serious driving restrictions) and the meandering cobblestone side streets had far more to offer than the main drag. I made a left here, and a right there, holding onto railings when going up or down hill. I had to watch each step carefully when climbing down the worn stairs, which would have been tricky enough in dry weather but were downright catastrophic in the rain and covered in wet leaves. But with great risk comes great reward, and after a curvy uphill battle I found myself at a piazza overlooking all of Rome below. There was a beautiful church with a large fountain out front and marble colunms. I couldn't find the name of it anywhere other than on the facade, but since my Latin isn't what it once was (or ever was, to be honest), I have no idea what it's called. All I know is that it's one of those places that literally takes your breath away. Something I've noticed: despite their size and grandeur, the exterior of these churches, even when perched in or lilterally built on a hillside, are supsrisingly un-ostentatious. Perhaps the use of marble and stone, and incorporating fountains, make them blend in better with their organic surroundings. Inside, though, is usually a completely different story.
After all of the up I found my way down, through Gianicolo. Think Central Park meets mediteranneo, speckled with ancient Roman ruins. It's a beautiful green park, with views of the city from its highest points and views of the Aurelian city walls at its lowest. When I finally made my way casually down, I managed to get to my original destination - the Castel. Like they say, all roads lead to Rome. It's amazing how simple strolling will lead one anywhere they meant to go. By the time I arrived, of course, it was early afternoon and everyone and their poorly-dressed, personal-space-ignoring mother was there, too.
So I turned around and walked on towards my side of the river. I stopped in a bar for a caffe, bought the Herald Tribune, and decided that the old adage that life is about the journey, not the destination, is so very, very true.
Unlike last night, whence I spent the evening drinking wine and watching Veronica Mars on DVD (a new personal favorite - I highly recommend), tonight I have dinner plans at 8.30 with a bunch of Italians. Well, one of whom is quasi-American. I'm really nervous - is that weird? It's sort of like a first date, but with a group of people who don't even speak my language. I'm sure it's nothing a little campari and soda won't ease, but unnerving none the less. Man, you really have to put yourself out there if you want to create a life for yourself. Nobody said it would be easy.

3 Comments:
Hey Alex!!!
Just read your blog and let me just say I am as well OBSESSED with Veronica Mars. I hope you are having a great time and hopefully I will see you when you return...
Love,
Elizabeth Brackenbury
Alexandra: Hi, Your Mom sent me the URL for your site...fun!! I'm in Milano working for the National Historic Trust of Italy, better known as FAI here. I am also taking Italian which has turned out to be quite a challenge... Anyway, I worked with your Mom in W-S for Speaking of Women's Health through the Sara Lee Center for Women's Health. She planned our VIP event...very clever, your Mom! Hope things are going well, off to work...
Lara Hanes
larahanes@yahoo.com
Allie
I feel like I'm back in Italy again! You're the best!
I'll pass this along to Chad, Kim, and the rest of the clan.
Love Opple
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